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0 gauge garden railway

Unread postPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:50 pm
by Merlin0161
Hi all,
I am at present building an 0 gauge garden railway and need a bit of help/advice with the signalling.
As it is outside and subject to the elements the British climate has to offer certain aspects of signalling will be impractical. And thanks to the neighbours cats, things like ground signals might have to be omitted.
Im sure that I have come to the right place for all things to do with signals and I look forward to your collective comments.
I intend to try and build lever frames for my signal boxes and to try and use them as prototypically as possible but at the moment I am not sure about the layout of the levers.
I am not modelling to any particular era as all the stock I have was inherited from my late Grandfather. He was very much an LMS and LNER man and worked the Bradley Fold West 'box in the '50's. The station buildings are loosely modelled around the L&Y Railway.
So....how would the 'box lever frame be laid out and numbered? Signals first, then points? Is there a 'typical' arrangement or was it all very much individual to each company?
I have tried to leave a link to a track diagram which I hope has worked but my computer skills are worse than my knowledge of railway practices :)
http://s801.photobucket.com/user/carlslater1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140113_142725_zps220a80d0.jpg.html
best regards
Carl

(link fixed - Stuart J, mod)

Re: 0 gauge garden railway

Unread postPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:34 pm
by Fast Line Floyd
Merlin0161 wrote:Hi all,
I am at present building an 0 gauge garden railway and need a bit of help/advice with the signalling.
As it is outside and subject to the elements the British climate has to offer certain aspects of signalling will be impractical. And thanks to the neighbours cats, things like ground signals might have to be omitted.
Im sure that I have come to the right place for all things to do with signals and I look forward to your collective comments.
I intend to try and build lever frames for my signal boxes and to try and use them as prototypically as possible but at the moment I am not sure about the layout of the levers.
I am not modelling to any particular era as all the stock I have was inherited from my late Grandfather. He was very much an LMS and LNER man and worked the Bradley Fold West 'box in the '50's. The station buildings are loosely modelled around the L&Y Railway.
So....how would the 'box lever frame be laid out and numbered? Signals first, then points? Is there a 'typical' arrangement or was it all very much individual to each company?
I have tried to leave a link to a track diagram which I hope has worked but my computer skills are worse than my knowledge of railway practices :)
http://s801.photobucket.com/user/carlslater1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140113_142725_zps220a80d0.jpg.html
best regards
Carl
(link fixed - Stuart J, mod)

An interesting set of questions, normally the frame will be laid out with the main line signal levers either at each end of the frame with the left hand levers operating the signals for trains which apporach from the left with the point levers and the levers for any shunt signals in the centre, that said there were many boxes with the signal levers towards the centre of the frame with the point and shunt signal levers at the extreme ends, this arrangement tends to be (but not exclusively) in the newer installations. The signal levers are normally laid out in the order that the train passes them with the distant signal lever first.

I hope this helps.

Graham

Re: 0 gauge garden railway

Unread postPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:00 pm
by John Webb
Can we assume you will have one lever frame at each of the three stations, ie three signal boxes?

Re: 0 gauge garden railway

Unread postPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 6:32 pm
by Mike Hodgson
Well, at least your stations are correctly named for block working :)

Graham's remarks about left and right refer to the signalman's point of view. If you operating position is on the other side of the line from your box, the frame should be against the back wall of the box if you want your lever frame to be the same way round.

It might be a good idea to add the shunt signals to the plan, even if you don't model them, maybe you might want to model them later, even if not actually working; you could number them as spares. A common arrangement, and probably the easiest to learn, is to group the signals associated with each siding or crossover together, and within each such group the shunt signal from the left, then the crossover or siding points, then shunt from the right.

The position of the signal box at A looks correct; unless there is a level crossing you haven't shown B would more probably be at the other end of the station because there is a maximum distance for points to be worked mechanically - so you place it near the crossovers/yard. You haven't shown a box at C; probably mid-platform so that it can work both crossovers.

Re: 0 gauge garden railway

Unread postPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:10 am
by kbarber
Looking at the layout, it's entirely possible A would need two boxes. Again, the maximum distance for operation of points would have been the determining factor. That, of course, would then require distants under homes right the way through both ends (and, if you were ever to implement any kind of block working, the delights of short section working).

A further variation would be that the box at the down end had been abolished before the date you're modelling, either by motorising the points or when the allowable distance for mechanical operation was increased, resulting in either a new frame at the remaining box, a relocking of the old frame or even simply working the new arrangements in to existing spare levers.

Alternative 1 would almost certainly have the new frame in the back of the box, so (going on from what Mike says) the whole numbering of the frame would be opposite to the frame-in-front convention. The thing to remember is that the levers would be laid out to make sense from the signlman's point of view.

Alternative 3 would be the cheap & cheerful (in reality cheap & nasty) option. There would almost certainly have to be some relocking, otherwise the result would be the most appalling dogs breakfast. But the whole point would be to keep this to an absolute minimum, so the resulting frame would be riddled with illogical sequences. (Remember the new arrangements wouldn't need quite as many levers as the old, partly because a number of distant signals would be abolished and also because there would be no need for a Facing Point Lock on the back platform outlet if motor points were used. There might also formerly have been more signals at the remaining box, a degree of rationalisation releasing one or two more spares.)

I'm not sure I'm being terribly helpful, I'm afraid...